It seems Turin aspires to be Paris, but lacks Paris's scope and romantic charm. Thus the first capital of the unified Italy is non very Italian. Turin seems to be a little formal, "aristocratic," cold, and conceited, especially after the 2006 Winter Olympics. (When we returned, I've learned the expression "I torinesi -- falsi e cortesi.") The main square can serve as a metaphor: in the 17th century the Savoy dukes slapped a baroque façade on one side of the medieval castle that faces the main square. It is now called Palazzo Madama and houses a museum. The castle itself was built over the ruins of a Roman gate, which can be seen under the main floor.
But first a morning group visit to the Egyptian museum.
It has a great collection, "better than in Cairo." In the early 1900's the Turin archeologists did a great job bringing home what remained after the other grave robbers. M went with the English group of students, I went with one of the remaining three Italian groups and understood everything (our guide, Valentina, spoke like to 7-year-olds.)
After the tour, the students ran around with notebooks and cameras, taking pictures and making sketches for their art history assignment: discuss the relation of function and form in one of the objects, or something like that.
Meanwhile we found a rather pleasant mostly vegetarian nouvelle cuisine place for lunch, (incongruously called I Fratelli Bufala).
Then a walking tour of the center, a group photo on the stairs of Palazzo Madama...
...followed by the Palazzo Madama museum. It has all kinds of things including a rich collection of porcelain and majolica, textiles, small bronzes and ivory pieces, etc. -- interesting. Finally back on the bus and to our hotel. A long day.
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